Recycled Works of Art
Ziad Ghanem can be seen as a motivating figure to many young designers trying to break out into the high fashion scene the world over. His unique techniques and ethical methods of designing and creating new and original Haute Couture pieces have caught people’s imaginations and caused a storm in the fashion world.
The deep rooted stereotypical image of ethical fashion using old paper bags and bin liners is out, and glamour is in. Dubbed the ‘Cult Couturier’ because of his alternative tastes and avant-garde style, Ziad tells me that “people don’t need that message anymore. I’m about making ethical fashion glamorous and beautiful; it’s not about being boring and stereotypical in environmental fashion anymore.”
This distinctive style has been captured in his new autumn/ winter 2011 collection which was showcased at London Fashion Week on February 20th, and which will also be taken around the globe to his international clients. The over-arching theme for this season was Ziad’s inspiration from the horror video game “Silent Hill” and the work of painter John-Henry Fuseli. Individual’s perceive others by their appearance and surroundings and naturally form contrasting opinions on the same situation. The same garment viewed in a dark, gothic context by one viewer will be interpreted as romantic and liberating by the next. Ziad’s ability to push the viewer’s preconceived ideas will once again prove to be one of the most talked about presentations of the season.
Using traditional haute couture skills and techniques in fabric weaving in this collection, Ziad has been able to eliminate seams, create dramatic draping and work with an extreme bias cut. Sourcing vintage silk chiffon, duchess satin and Moroccan crepe from old couture mills and using their natural flow to fit the body and create new forms and shapes.
Established as a ready-to-wear couturier for both men and women, Ziad sources luxury fabrics from organic fabric producers, rubber and dyes from South America to create his uber underground pieces and bespoke designs. His use of recycled clothes from vintage charity and consignment shops, and intricate assortments of fabrics are many of the environmentally conscious techniques that he has introduced to his work since the beginning, trying to prove that “green” ideas have a place in couture.
Using scrap rubber from factories that can be re-melted and used in his designs as well following principles of environmentally friendly printing and ethical working conditions, Ziad tells me “it’s hard bringing ethics into fashion, with the costs of organic materials and dyes, as well as adhering to fair pay for workers bringing costs much higher than usual.”
Aiden Connor, Ziad’s assistant, tells me that the old ways of producing haute couture pieces carried with them a lot of guilt. Fur, child labour and unfair pay haunt the fashion industry, however Ziad’s ethical methods take those practices away. He also tells me that the image of haute couture being an archaic, Parisian, classic-styled artistry has been tested by Ziad who instead produces uniquely glamorous pieces whilst at the same time remaining cool, modern and wearable.
Alexis Knox, stylist and fashion editor of Notion and Drama magazines told me that “Ziad is inspired by his clients and they are inspired by him, they feed off each other. He has shown that couture can be fresh, young, and innovative whilst at the same time saving the world!”
She also expressed that designers today needed to be more ethical about saving eachother, not just the environment, by being humane with workers with fair pay and reasonable hours, as well as providing couture pieces that do not use environmentally damaging methods such as fur, toxic dyes and wastage of materials, a point relevant to a time when the world is experiencing the biggest recession since the 1929.
The Middle East
When I move on to talk about the fashion industry in the Middle East, he tells me that the region is “starting to take notice of recycled fabrics and ethical couture, especially by the young educated elite” who are often more aware of alternative and playful fashion tastes in a traditional minded environment when attitudes towards fashion are examined .
Many young designers in the region have been observing Ziad’s designs, in a cut-throat profession where those breaking out in the industry are often trampled on by the long-standing fashion houses at the top.
Young Lebanese designer, Charbel Zoe El-Khoury told me “I don't think the new designers are being encouraged to succeed with the new alternative styles and methods. The Arab mentality goes for the classic style of dresses like designs by Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad etc. “This is what can be sold the most”, revealing how many top designers in the region traditionally opt for catering to the masses, instead of trying to come up with more imaginative and unique designs. What we often see is déjà vu.
On the new alternative and vintage fashion trends sweeping the Middle East , he told me that younger generations are more open and accepting of these new and playful tastes in fashion.
Other countries in the region such as Saudi Arabia and Kuwait have started to see changes in the way young people are approaching fashion and the region’s first ever vintage store which opened in Downtown Beirut in 2009 has not been able to keep up with the high demand of orders, symbolising the fast pace that fashion trends have been changing in the Middle East.
Ziad’s achievements have drawn the attention of those in the industry who are looking to produce new creations whilst at the same time remaining ethical. He had the opportunity of representing Lebanon
Ziad has attracted a following who come to him from all over the world, from Japan and Hong Kong, the US and many Arab states, to buy one-of-a-kind pieces that will make them stand out in the crowd and which they know will be a distinctive custom-made creation. Among his fans include famous figures such as Lady Gaga, Orlando Bloom, Kelly Osbourne, as well as a long list of many other high profile actors, singers and performance artists. It is this exclusivity that has been Ziad’s asset in promoting himself.
Ziad Ghanem’s Website: www.ziadghanem.co.uk
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